There is very little traffic, and few local homes had cars in the driveway. Everybody has a boat or a couple of outrigger canoes. There apparently is a public bus, and we saw a couple parked, but never saw one on the move. We only encountered one tour bus an that was filled with our fellow passengers. We did see several marinas, and quite a few charter boats, mainly catamarans, so I guess there is a base here. It looks like great sailing with smooth waters and just the right amount of wind. There was one beautiful private sailing yacht about 90 feet long, red hull, called “Mustang”.

Once we left town there were a few miles of tidy homes with attractive well kept gardens, but it thinned out rapidly. The far side of the island was pretty empty. There are no luxury hotels here. There is a large Marai (sacred spot) where sacrifices (human and other) were performed, a place which is now favored by “new agers” who believe it is good for their Karma.

Around 11:20 AM we decide to stop for lunch. Very few, actually no roadside eateries, but we saw a sign for “Hotel Opua” and restaurant, and took a rough side road down to a beach where there was a cluster of white clapboard cabins, and a little open air bar/restaurant. Only one car, probably the owners, and we did ask if they served lunch. The answer was yes, but not before 12. We moved on.

The next place, Hotel Apitipia, was similar, but not a soul to be seen, although tables were set. We gave up and continued our drive. As we approached Utuaroa again (we could see our ship) I spotted a local “snack bar” and we drove in. It was about 4 tables under Palapa roofs with a small cookhouse nearby. The other customers were all Polynesian. One liter of orange juice was 400, it came in a cardboard carton. I had Steak Frites for about $20, it was huge and very good, the others had sandwiches, each a whole baguette split lengthways with delicious cooked contents, chicken or fish. Mother couldn’t finish hers so I helped her out.On top of my steak, the largest lunch I have had the whole trip! Phil paid, but the cost was reasonable.

While we were eating it began to drizzle a bit then it became a downpour and the ship disappeared from sight. The rain lasted about 10 minutes then it stopped and the sun came out by the time we finished lunch. Perfect.

When we got back to Utuaroa, I dropped the others off and drove the car to the Airport where they had asked us to return it. I paid cash and used up my remaining francs plus a few US dollars. We used 11 liters of fuel which cost 1600 francs.

We are now at sea on the way to Raratonga in the Cook Islands (him again!) and will arrive tomorrow morning. No more French, I suppose New Zealand accents now.