Blue Book of Boats

Spend the day at sea.  We lost Sunday because of the International Dateline.  It is now Monday Oct. 19.  We went directly from Saturday to Monday.  There is no Sunday.

From Raratonga of the Cook Islands, we proceed next to Pago Pago of the American Samoa. An earthquake generated tsunami had just devastated Pago Pago on September 29, 2009, and at the time, Table 29 is already aboard MV Amsterdam, and the ship captain’s was unsure then whether to proceed to Pago Pago or not. But today, we are at Pago Pago and witness the devastation two weeks after the clean up.

We arrived in Pago Pago this morning. Approaching the island it looks like may other volcanic islands with steep hills and verdant vegetation. As you get closer you see commercial docks, tank farms and tuna canneries. Not as pretty as many other places, but at least we tied to a dock.

If you stepped of the ship and turned left, you would never know there was a Tsunami here just a couple of weeks ago. Beachside restaurants and hotels are undamaged and in full operation. Turn right and walk to the head of the harbor and it is a very different story. This house was originally located on the right side of the road, on pilings out over the water. The pilings are still there but the house has moved hundreds of feet!

At the yacht harbor, a heavy ferro-cement yacht was deposited on top of the dock as you see it. Two boats ended up in the yard of a Mormon church, hundreds of yards from the water.

I spoke to friends of the yachtsman who died here, Dan Olenski(sp?). Follow the link to a blog about the disaster.  They had a funeral on the dock for him a few days ago. His wife is selling the boat to some New Zealanders and giving up cruising. Understandable. I met an older Polish guy who lost his boat. He’d went up the mountain and stayed 3 days, afraid of another tsunami. Now he is living in a tent on the dock, and he told me that today is the first day he has thought about getting another boat, so I guess the shock is wearing off.

About 11 people were killed in Pago Pago, another 100 in surrounding areas. The schools new the drill and the teachers had the kids run inland at the first quake so no students were hurt. Look closely below and you will see a car literally embedded in a house. Next door there was a fishing boat in the living room. A big one!

Despite all this most businesses and tours operated as usual. I had a beer at the yacht club, lunch (fish tacos, very good) at the Goat Island Cafe, and more beer at a local seedy bar where I was beckoned by other ships passngers, all a little drunk. 3 beers today, a record for me on this trip.

Despite the destruction the people are very friendly and cheerful. I met some Homeland Security men who were trying to find out how the government could react better next time. The locals seemed to think they did OK. At the local seedy bar a large black gentleman name Dontae explained local customs to us. He is married to the daughter of the local Senator, the highest ranked politician on the island. He is from Miami Florida! Beer (24 oz. bottles) was $3!