Blue Book of Boats
Juicy tidbits and blogbits about boats
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This is our last island before Australia. I got up early to watch us come in. The weather was cloudy and cool (23C) but humid. From a distance the island was not as impressive as the Polynesian islands, but as we approached it looked better and better.
Port Vila harbor is large, deep and well sheltered with several commercial docks. We tied up at a cruise ship dock which was under construction, no buildings or facilities, located about 5 km from the center of town. No brass band here! There were lots of taxis and buses waiting, and just outside the port there were many vendors with tables set up.
Vanuatu was formerly the French/English joint protectorate known as the New Hebrides (shouldn’t it have been run by Scots?). It has been independent since 1980. There are three official languages, English, French and pidgin. I never really thought of pidgin as a language, rather I thought it was a “dumbed down” version of English.
Hearing it spoken, I realized it is a real language, and I understand about as many words as I would if it was Korean!
I left the Port and turned right (town is to the left) and walked along a dusty road until I came to the water then followed the beach past some attractive waterfront homes, some with swimming pools, interspersed with tin shacks. There was a boat repair yard with about a dozen yachts inside, one or tow nice ones, the rest pretty rough. Although it was a weekday, and the gates were open, I couldn’t see any work going on. I met and spoke to a few locals on the beach, but they didn’t have much English, just Pidgin. One older man with a little boy (the boys hair was almost blonde, bleached by the sun I suppose) spoke to me in a friendly manner. I asked if the boy was his grandson. He didn’t understand so I said “Him son belong you?”. Amazingly he understood that and shook his head, said “Blong brother belong me” which I took to mean he was the boys Uncle.
The people here are Melanesia, and look negro, but with different features form Africans. The have lined faces and even young people look older than they really are. Most are not good looking by our standards, but are gentle and polite. You would never guess that this was the land of headhunters and cannibals, the Big Nambas and Little Nambas and the cargo cult that worships John Frum. Look it up! There are lots of other islands and this is the capital, so maybe the original culture is still out there somewhere.

I walked further and came to a lovely sheltered beach with clear blue water and white sand, not a soul on it. This sign was on the beach. Can anyone translate it?
It looks like some of the cellphone text messages I have seen.I walked back to the ship, had a quick shower and went ashore again. This time I spoke to one of the drivers who told be the bus to town was $3 and directed me to an empty mini-bus. I got inside, and he got in to, making some small talk. He told me we had to wait until there were five more passengers before leaving. There didn’t seem to be any more passegers coming so he suggested he might find me a cab for $10 to take me to town. I agreed and he beckoned me to another, smaller van. To my surprise he got into the drives seat. I had been had! As we drove away another driver said something to him and he replied what sounded to me like “No Clue”.He did drive me into town, pointing out the sights and main buildings, so I didn’t mind the $10. This isn’t a bargaining culture here, you just say no and go elsewhere if the price seems high.I walked around the town which seemedrather ordinary, but has most facilities and prices seem OK but maybe a little higher than Fiji. I stopped in a beachside cafe and had the lunch special for 1300 Vatus, almost exactly $13 US. This included 2 Tusker beers and some fish, 3 tiny pieces, and 4 french fries, or what looked like french fries but were actually breadfruit. If it wasn’t for the 2 beers it would have been overpriced, but it was tasty if small, I paid in US and got change in VATUs, all coins.
The next day, I was able to get a translation for this sign. Here it is:
PUBLIC NOTICE
U BLON KAREM
COREL MO SANBIS
LONG PLES IA
SIGN: OWNERTranslates as:
YOU DON’T CARRY CORAL OR BEACH SAND AWAY FROM HERE



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