Blue Book of Boats

Spend the day at sea.  We lost Sunday because of the International Dateline.  It is now Monday Oct. 19.  We went directly from Saturday to Monday.  There is no Sunday.

From Raratonga of the Cook Islands, we proceed next to Pago Pago of the American Samoa. An earthquake generated tsunami had just devastated Pago Pago on September 29, 2009, and at the time, Table 29 is already aboard MV Amsterdam, and the ship captain’s was unsure then whether to proceed to Pago Pago or not. But today, we are at Pago Pago and witness the devastation two weeks after the clean up.

We arrived in Pago Pago this morning. Approaching the island it looks like may other volcanic islands with steep hills and verdant vegetation. As you get closer you see commercial docks, tank farms and tuna canneries. Not as pretty as many other places, but at least we tied to a dock.

If you stepped of the ship and turned left, you would never know there was a Tsunami here just a couple of weeks ago. Beachside restaurants and hotels are undamaged and in full operation. Turn right and walk to the head of the harbor and it is a very different story. This house was originally located on the right side of the road, on pilings out over the water. The pilings are still there but the house has moved hundreds of feet!

At the yacht harbor, a heavy ferro-cement yacht was deposited on top of the dock as you see it. Two boats ended up in the yard of a Mormon church, hundreds of yards from the water.

I spoke to friends of the yachtsman who died here, Dan Olenski(sp?). Follow the link to a blog about the disaster.  They had a funeral on the dock for him a few days ago. His wife is selling the boat to some New Zealanders and giving up cruising. Understandable. I met an older Polish guy who lost his boat. He’d went up the mountain and stayed 3 days, afraid of another tsunami. Now he is living in a tent on the dock, and he told me that today is the first day he has thought about getting another boat, so I guess the shock is wearing off.

About 11 people were killed in Pago Pago, another 100 in surrounding areas. The schools new the drill and the teachers had the kids run inland at the first quake so no students were hurt. Look closely below and you will see a car literally embedded in a house. Next door there was a fishing boat in the living room. A big one!

Despite all this most businesses and tours operated as usual. I had a beer at the yacht club, lunch (fish tacos, very good) at the Goat Island Cafe, and more beer at a local seedy bar where I was beckoned by other ships passngers, all a little drunk. 3 beers today, a record for me on this trip.

Despite the destruction the people are very friendly and cheerful. I met some Homeland Security men who were trying to find out how the government could react better next time. The locals seemed to think they did OK. At the local seedy bar a large black gentleman name Dontae explained local customs to us. He is married to the daughter of the local Senator, the highest ranked politician on the island. He is from Miami Florida! Beer (24 oz. bottles) was $3!

From Raiate, French Polynesia, we travelled next to Raratonga, Cook Islands, where we shall switch from speaking French to New Zealand English.

We had a day at sea yesterday, and last night there was a bit of a storm, with the biggest seas we have had so far, about 12 feet. Lots of rain, but dawn brought clear skies and calm winds.

Rarotonga is in the Cook Islands, a New Zealand protectorate. It is quite a small island, but has much more commercial development than Raiatea, with many restaurants, clubs and stores. Prices, in $NZ are quite a bit lower than in French Polynesia.

I went ashore and walked through town, stopped for a coffee at a local waterside cafe. They seem to serve only espresso drinks. I had what they call a “flat white” which is what we would call a no-foam latte.

They have 2 pharmacies, a couple of supermarkets, hardware and department stores, car and motorcycle dealers. There are two bus routes on the island: clockwise and anti-clockwise. For $4 I took a bus ride around the island. It seems populated all the way around, with one or two fancy resorts and a number of budget hotels.

The standard transport here is the motor scooter, and you see everybody riding them from young men and women with babies to ancient grannies. They are all very quiet and driven carefully and courteously. Why do motorbikes in Canada have to be so LOUD?

I have never seen so many graveyards. There are graves by the many churches, in private yards, in parks and everywhere. Most look cared for and many have fresh flowers, even when they are quite old.

Unlike French Polynesia, there are signs on everything. Must be a Brit thing. If it stands still, label it! In Tahiti we could tell a church but had to guess at the denomination. Here there is no doubt. Seventh Day Adventist seems popular, but there is a Catholic Cathedral, and many others.

I had lunch in a lovely beachside cafe called the Tamarind. A beautiful old colonial house with verandas all around and lovely gardens. Friendly waiter but slow service. Interesting historical pictures on the walls including one of Irving Johnson’s Brigantine “Yankee”.

This is probably the best island so far for a longer stay. There is lots to do, great beaches and lagoons, inexpensive shopping and you can rent a furnished house for about $700 a month! Cheaper than staying home! There is an airport, but I expect it is an expensive place to fly to. Cruise ships seldom call here as the harbor is tiny. We had to anchor out and tender ashore. Boarding the tender was an adventure as a large swell was running after the storm.

We are underway now for Pago Pago, American Samoa.

There is very little traffic, and few local homes had cars in the driveway. Everybody has a boat or a couple of outrigger canoes. There apparently is a public bus, and we saw a couple parked, but never saw one on the move. We only encountered one tour bus an that was filled with our fellow passengers. We did see several marinas, and quite a few charter boats, mainly catamarans, so I guess there is a base here. It looks like great sailing with smooth waters and just the right amount of wind. There was one beautiful private sailing yacht about 90 feet long, red hull, called “Mustang”.

Once we left town there were a few miles of tidy homes with attractive well kept gardens, but it thinned out rapidly. The far side of the island was pretty empty. There are no luxury hotels here. There is a large Marai (sacred spot) where sacrifices (human and other) were performed, a place which is now favored by “new agers” who believe it is good for their Karma.

Around 11:20 AM we decide to stop for lunch. Very few, actually no roadside eateries, but we saw a sign for “Hotel Opua” and restaurant, and took a rough side road down to a beach where there was a cluster of white clapboard cabins, and a little open air bar/restaurant. Only one car, probably the owners, and we did ask if they served lunch. The answer was yes, but not before 12. We moved on.

The next place, Hotel Apitipia, was similar, but not a soul to be seen, although tables were set. We gave up and continued our drive. As we approached Utuaroa again (we could see our ship) I spotted a local “snack bar” and we drove in. It was about 4 tables under Palapa roofs with a small cookhouse nearby. The other customers were all Polynesian. One liter of orange juice was 400, it came in a cardboard carton. I had Steak Frites for about $20, it was huge and very good, the others had sandwiches, each a whole baguette split lengthways with delicious cooked contents, chicken or fish. Mother couldn’t finish hers so I helped her out.On top of my steak, the largest lunch I have had the whole trip! Phil paid, but the cost was reasonable.

While we were eating it began to drizzle a bit then it became a downpour and the ship disappeared from sight. The rain lasted about 10 minutes then it stopped and the sun came out by the time we finished lunch. Perfect.

When we got back to Utuaroa, I dropped the others off and drove the car to the Airport where they had asked us to return it. I paid cash and used up my remaining francs plus a few US dollars. We used 11 liters of fuel which cost 1600 francs.

We are now at sea on the way to Raratonga in the Cook Islands (him again!) and will arrive tomorrow morning. No more French, I suppose New Zealand accents now.