Blue Book of Boats

From Raiate, French Polynesia, we travelled next to Raratonga, Cook Islands, where we shall switch from speaking French to New Zealand English.

We had a day at sea yesterday, and last night there was a bit of a storm, with the biggest seas we have had so far, about 12 feet. Lots of rain, but dawn brought clear skies and calm winds.

Rarotonga is in the Cook Islands, a New Zealand protectorate. It is quite a small island, but has much more commercial development than Raiatea, with many restaurants, clubs and stores. Prices, in $NZ are quite a bit lower than in French Polynesia.

I went ashore and walked through town, stopped for a coffee at a local waterside cafe. They seem to serve only espresso drinks. I had what they call a “flat white” which is what we would call a no-foam latte.

They have 2 pharmacies, a couple of supermarkets, hardware and department stores, car and motorcycle dealers. There are two bus routes on the island: clockwise and anti-clockwise. For $4 I took a bus ride around the island. It seems populated all the way around, with one or two fancy resorts and a number of budget hotels.

The standard transport here is the motor scooter, and you see everybody riding them from young men and women with babies to ancient grannies. They are all very quiet and driven carefully and courteously. Why do motorbikes in Canada have to be so LOUD?

I have never seen so many graveyards. There are graves by the many churches, in private yards, in parks and everywhere. Most look cared for and many have fresh flowers, even when they are quite old.

Unlike French Polynesia, there are signs on everything. Must be a Brit thing. If it stands still, label it! In Tahiti we could tell a church but had to guess at the denomination. Here there is no doubt. Seventh Day Adventist seems popular, but there is a Catholic Cathedral, and many others.

I had lunch in a lovely beachside cafe called the Tamarind. A beautiful old colonial house with verandas all around and lovely gardens. Friendly waiter but slow service. Interesting historical pictures on the walls including one of Irving Johnson’s Brigantine “Yankee”.

This is probably the best island so far for a longer stay. There is lots to do, great beaches and lagoons, inexpensive shopping and you can rent a furnished house for about $700 a month! Cheaper than staying home! There is an airport, but I expect it is an expensive place to fly to. Cruise ships seldom call here as the harbor is tiny. We had to anchor out and tender ashore. Boarding the tender was an adventure as a large swell was running after the storm.

We are underway now for Pago Pago, American Samoa.